London Fashion Week 2011 is rapidly approaching on the fashion radar. Fabulous fashion designers and their collections, along with the models, make-up artists, hair stylists, screaming show directors and wannabe front row runners, are anticipated by magazine editors, celebrities and fashion worshippers everywhere.
Didn’t manage to blag passes for the show? Couldn’t sneak past the burly security guard? No, neither did we. But luckily for you, and us, London College of Fashion has come up with the ingenious creation of their very own Pop Up shop, aptly named College Shop. Having pitched up camp at in Kingly Court the store will be stocking everything; womenswear, menswear, footwear, accessories and jewellery, Illustrations and photography, all of which have been designed by recent London College of Fashion graduates. But, be quick, all the stock is changed and alternated daily to give exposure to the future of fashion – you also will be able to get your hands on some prize pieces from already established alumni like William Tempest and Beatrice Boyle. Prices will start at £20 and go up to £400 – a budget easily achieved by students and editors alike.
Running for three weeks, opening on Thursday 8th September 2011 (coinciding with Vogues Fashion Night Out), it means it will be open leading up to Tellus favourite week of the year. So, if you do find yourself lacking in the ‘catwalk invitation department’, grab yourself a real piece of fashion of a possible future front row favourite.
It’s here. The September issue of US Vogue has hit the news stands.
If the cover is anything to go by, shot by the now ‘Mrs Hince’s friend and fashion photographer, Mario Testino (who was official wedding photographer for the day), the readers are in for a real treat. The pages of the magazine are doused with portraits and pictures from the most anticipated wedding since the ‘other’ Kate tied the knot – and Tellus has to say, Mossy gave Middy a run for her money.
Capturing tender moments between blushing bride and (many, many) bridesmaids, guests and delicate details that made the day, the snaps are backed up by an article by Hamish Bowles who reported on the day and who also managed to get an interview with the ‘Just Married’ model. If that wasn’t excitement enough John Galliano, one of Moss’ closest friends and now infamous (maybe for all the wrong reasons), comments in the article on the big day – which he designed the dress for, obviously.
There isn’t much more that Tellus can say on the matter – the pictures say a thousand words, and more….
With all the September issues hitting the shelves and seriously damaging our pockets, Tellus decided to take a look glance at the A/W Catwalks; the looks that caught our eyes for all the right reasons, and all the wrong…
The Good…Posh Spice, always the one little girls never wanted to be is now the one that every Fashionista is dying to be! Feminine, complimentary and so damn wearable, Victoria Beckham can wave goodbye to the days of being a WAG, as after her A/W collection she is definitely a fully fledged designer. Juggling being married to the most yummy man in the world, nursing a new baby whos wardrobe we’re already jealous off and creating an in-demand fashion emporium; Mrs Beckham is the epitome of Girl Power.
The Bad…Bad Girl we mean, obviously. Marc Jacobs added less sugar and a lot more spice to the Louis Vuitton A/W collection, with fetish being flavour of choice. Fetish style hand-cuffs, a multi-mirrored floor and sex fueled supermodels wearing deliciously naughty clothes caused more than a stir. As if that wasn’t bad enough Britain’s favourite Bad Girl Kate Moss took to the catwalk wearing nothing but some underwear, attitude and a cigarette hanging out of her mouth.
The Ugly…we sincerely hoped that Christopher Kane was monkeying around when we saw the Gorrilla-esque arms take to the catwalk at Burberry Prorsum – imagine two furry beasts attached to each arm. But when Yves St Laurent and Versace followed suit, it seems the fashion world has gone bananas for the shaggy sleeves. Less top banana and more mouldy banana.
The italians have style. Whether it’s because of the hot weather, the siestas or even the abundance of delicious food, they’ve got it. Cool to the extreme, painfully stylish and confident – they own it all.
It is no wonder why, then, that many-a-fashion house has been born and nurtured in Italy, resulting in the take over of the rest of the fashion world. Exhibition Masters of Style: Celebrating the Stories behind Italian Fashion at Somerset house has encapsulated all the most influential Italian haute houses; Gucci, Missoni, Armani, Dolce and Gabbana, Ferragamo and Prada (to name all six that feature) through images. With all houses having personally hand-picked images from their collections, advertisements and photo-shoots, they are going on a journey looking back through their image archives. Masters of Style is on a mission to breath life back into these iconic fashion moments, bringing an insight into the influences and evident passion behind their most iconic work.
This exhibition coincides with the 150th anniversary Italy’s unification in the whirlwind that is the fashion industry. Curated by Peroni Nastro Azzurro in partnership with esteemed fashion commentator and Daddy Fashion himself, Colin McDowell.
Blow up things pop. It’s a scientific fact. And Pandemonia has done just that. The biggest thing to appear this year and blow up all over the Fashion Week front rows and your glossies and rags, is the larger than life (literally, she is seven foot tall) platinum blonde walking, talking post pop conceptual artist. With more plastic than Page 3 and enough helium to cater to a dozen 5 year olds party’s, it is TellusFashion‘s pleasure to introduce to you, Pandemonia…..(interview by Alice Grace Carroll)
“I’m like a play within a play”
Apart from being in the right place at the right time, I am tall and slim – fashion magazines will always like that. I’m like an extra spin on celebrity, event and media. It could be that the glossies love me too because, like them, I am glossy. My self sculpted image is unique. I’m am art.
“It’s visual conceptual art”
My post pop art show is a combination of art, fashion and social critique. I’m currently looking for sponsorship so the show can go ahead.
“My inspirations are adverts”
I have always found it fascinating how they can influence. I have taken their lead and used the tools of the media and advertising. Images say so much.
“I edit myself into and out of the media by choosing what events I go to”
My favourite event o far was the fabulous PPQ Autumn Winter 2011 London Fashion Week. From the moment I stepped out of my black cab, I was well received. The press I got following that appearance was amazing.
“It’s important not to overdress”
When I turn up on the front row of these fashion shows, I don’t want to steal the limelight from the designer, so I try to blend in. But as you can imagine, that doesn’t always go to plan.
“I would say an umbrella”
That is probably the only thing that will never go out of fashion. Especially in this country. It is always raining!
“This is the age of escapism”
Seeing myself in the Sun Newspaper and in print in general, is a dislocation.
“Social media is changing the world”
Who was it who said ‘We have the means of production’? Well, we do now. I have my own blog, it’s a brilliant form of communication. Using my blog I can broadcast ideas, be easily found and comment on things I would otherwise not be able to.
“My night ended in disaster and my speech bubble burst”
I did a charity event for the Haitian Earthquake disaster. I won’t say where it was, but the ceiling was way too low. I won’t ever be going on stages with low ceilings ever again.
Unlike the archetypal socialite blonde bombshell she encapsulates, Pandemonia will never age – and boy, does this make the fashion world stand up and pay attention. Challenging what people perceive as art, she is truly breathing a breath of fresh air, or helium, to the typical London Fashionista.
Everyone saw the explosion of houndstooth in the last few fall catwalks and on the highstreet, this popular trend seeing designers giving a little nod to mans best friend. But this A/W the catwalks have taken the trend to who new level…
It seems like our furry friends have taken over the A/W Catwalks, with everyone from Mulberry to Armani throwing a bone to our canine companions. Givenchy saw menswear jumpers embossed with snarling Rottweilers strutted down the catwalk, hanging baggy on tiny female models; androgynous and completely bow-WOW.
The barking-mad A/W Collection from Topshop Unique epitomised princess pup – the 101 Dalmation themed clothes were completed by a painted on nose and hair styled into dog ears in the form of top knots. Every little detail was complete to the whisker, including white and black dotted nails.
If your don’t feel like taking the trend too literal, Emanuel Ungaro and Tory Burch, amongst many, have taken the meaning of pampered pooch and sassed it up, introducing decadent dog collars to their A/W 2011 collections.
It may seem that some of the models were upstaged by a new breed of model, the crafty canine. The Louis Vuitton campaign sees models pouting alongside model mutts, pugs to be exact. Where as Emporio Armani and Mulberry wanted to pack more of a punch when it came to their A/W catwalk, or should we say Dog-Walk, when the audience saw four paws strutting down the catwalk rocking the latest in canine couture (dinner jacket for Armani and parker for Mulberry).
Barking mad or completely sassy, these designers certainly took a paws for thought when creating their collections. Theres no doubt TellusFashion will be rocking this trend – a fast way to get from mongrel to best in show in no time.
Vintage is in. For a fair few years now the fashion forward have been delving back into their parents wardrobes, sporting faded band t-shirts and high waist cut off levis. But like everything, styles develop, with gorgeous sequin gowns and glamorous embellished pants being opted for by fashionistas. This is the new vintage.
Tick-Tock Vintage are the epitome of this new vintage and are winding the clocks back, bringing London Fashionistas a true taste of Italy through their one-off designer vintage pieces. From the Moschino pants seen on pop starlett Jessie J to the Versace archive body-con skirt rocked by Lady GaGa – Tick-Tock Vintage has it all.
Rummaging and scouring through warehouses in Italy to find designer and designer influenced pieces that truly capture that italian vibe, you will find business partners and long time friends, Gessica Preto Martini and Nabila Gallozzi. Both sharing a true passion for quality fabrics, delicate embellishment and painfully trendy cuts, their primary aim of their company is to make London vintage.
The attitude and genuine live-life vibe of the girls shines through in the clothes that can be purchased at affordable prices from their recently launched website www.ticktockvintage.com – but remember, they’re all one off pieces, so be quick with your click! – where navigation on the website is easy with an option to view strictly designer pieces or to narrow down your search by product type, Tick-Tock has done all the work for you so you don’t have to go searching for an amazing vintage find. They’ve already found it. Also, Tick-Tock provide items for Lucy in Disguise, which they have been stocking since it opened in 2011 If you are a VIP – of course you are darling – private arrangements can be made to visit their showroom in trendy Dalston to get up close and personal with delicious bags, belts and rails crammed with the wardrobe you wish you had.
As well as being invited to many events, Tick-Tock also participate, having been part of many vintage fairs that have taken over the London scene of recent. Why not check out the blog here and have a sneak peak at past pictorial posts about the exclusive events they get to attend, their next vintage fair escapade and musings about everything vintage. This is what differentiates Tick-Tock from every other vintage emporium out there. Tick-Tock is personal. It’s real. Being a fresh new face to the ever expanding fashion industry they have secured their longevity with the message of their brand. They care. All the pieces are personally handpicked by Gessica and Nabila with their customers in mind which is probably why their client base is vastly expanding. All TellusFashion knows is, as long as there is vintage, there will be Tick-Tock Vintage.
Glastonbury has ended. The stages are being taken down. The last of the mud just washed out of your hair. Cringey tagged photos on Facebook and a scruffy wristband to mark the occasion will be a reminder of an amazing weekend. But what about something more special? More keepsake?
Hairy Growler has had residence at Glastonbury festival for enough years to make them a firm favourite with the festival goers. With their stall pitched up in the Green Fields, the intricate quirky pieces encapsulate the whole ethos of the prestigious festival – magical reality. Well, where else would you be covered head to toe in mud watching Beyonce booty-shaking right in front of you?
Enchanted scenes delicately cut out of pre 1919 coins to old sterling forks being bent and twisted to create a one of a kind bracelet, Hairy Growler prides itself on making all their jewellery out of 100% raw recycled materials. The company, set up in 1999 and originally based in Cambridge, takes old disregarded metals and transforms them into something truly unique, and most of all, completely wearable. The whole make-do-and-mend theme is relevant to the current economic climate, but these pieces don’t emulate that – they give off a sense of enchantment, wonderment and fairytale. Rings, necklaces, bracelets, earrings – no fork is too big or scene too small to mould, carve and create something out of for Hairy Growler. With past collections such as Star Crossed, The Woodlands, Freedom Fighter and Cheeky Lil’ Fairies, It’s no wonder the jewellery emporium is popular at Glastonbury. Infact, now even more than ever, since they made a one off piece for Glastonbury 2011; the Decision Maker necklace pendant. The circular pendent is embossed with the names of different areas of the festival with a fully functioning spinning arrow placed on top to send you on your wildest journeys through the festival.
In wonderment? Enter the mystical world of Hairy Growler by visiting the website here (the strap line being “Enter a world where pennies become pendants and cutlery becomes couture.”) where you can buy online, find out information about other events they will be at and see the whole process of making these one off pieces through images – TellusFashion loves it.
Dip-Dye and crazy hair colour has plagued the catwalks for the last two seasons – note Louise Gray, Felder Felder, Jeremy Scott, Giles and Meadham Kirchhoff – and has naturally filtered down to the celebrities on the front rows – Drew Barrymore, we’re looking at you. Now, it has finally trickled down to the masses and we all have BLEACH salon to thank for that (TellusFashion bows in your presence) After a stint in Topshop Oxford Street flagship store’s basement during London Fashion Week, candy colour and gritty gradients have been exposed to experimental Fashionistas everywhere.
Love-child of 23 year old stylist and hair extraordinaire Alex Brownsell and agent and friend Sam Teasdale, BLEACH primarily set up their two-chair camp in popular Dalston nail salon, WAH! Nails – where they still hold residence – in September 2010. Through experimenting with a kaleidoscope of colours and methods, BLEACH has been famed for bringing the phenomenon of dip-dye to the cool and quirky. The creative BLEACH team offer a whole menu of hard-to-achieve-at-home styles; their famed Dip-Dyes, Super Bleaching and Gradient Colours. All of these treatments will only add to their created tribe of ‘bleachenders’. BLEACH have already worked on a collaboration with cult British hair brand, TIGI, combining their punky colours and aesthetic with Bed Heads styling prowess – with the product being used to quiff and tousle all styles created, standing the Dalston duo in good stead for their speedy rise to fashion-fame.
Don’t fancy doing anything drastic? Opt for some hair stencils, darling pink hearts or gothic navy crucifixes that BLEACH specially created for Topshop. Or how about a cheeky Dip-Dye treatment? What about darker roots to give that, “I don’t give a damn, but I do” attitude all the London girls possess? With BLEACH, the possibilities are endless. Check their blog out (http://bleachlondon.co.uk/) for all the latest hair colour trends, prices and inspirational images that will have you thinking that Frenchie from Grease is the biggest trend setter around.
Now what colour will match my outfit?
It’s not often in the fast paced fashion world, and the normal world alike, that past fashion collections are spoke about and admired after the latest designs have strutted down the catwalk. But, Hussein Chalayan has changed the rules. In his new self-titled book out next week, the designer muses over his past collections. TellusFashion looks back at our favourite collections.
The year of 2007 saw Chalayan produce two collections, A/W ‘Airborne’ and S/S One ‘Hundred and Eleven’ that got the world talking, applauding and seeing the line between art and fashion blur considerably.
‘Airborne’ saw models sashay down what represented an airports landing strip, lit up only by a single row of spotlights above. Headwear was favoured throughout. Mesh expandable helmet hood ensembles that would have been right at home in an astronauts wardrobe and simplistic flying hats complete with a flowing train, sat neatly on other-worldly looking models heads. Two of the models even sported plastic dome hats that were lit a ghouly red, much like the batons used to wave in a plane.
A cream Star Wars inspired romper suit, complete with tiny wings that protruded from the hip, halted at the end of the catwalk only for the wings to robotically open up to reveal swatches of layered striped material making a skirt, morphing the playsuit into a peplum mini dress.
The show opened and closed with what would have normally been considered as a mini shift dress. That would be true if it wasn’t for the fact that it was made up of tiny individual LED lights, shimmering different muted colours.
Chalayan’s Spring/Summer collection ‘One Hundred and Eleven’ contained everything that connoted summer; loose white fabric, floppy hats and sweet dresses. Following a dress made of a beaded crochet of gold and a gorgeous flowing textures white gown, flower embellished and heavy on fabric, it was the bubble dress that stole the show. Simple in design yet deliciously futuristic, the dress was made up of various sized plastic bubbles, structured around the body and supported by a metallic material frame.
Sheer exaggerated cap sleeves were attached to a dress body made up of individual pure white plastic panels that gradually lifted and fanned out leaving the audience peeping at the models ivory underwear, only to the move back to its original structure having flipped the panels to reveal shiny silver squares – all while the matching hat shrunk. The finale consisted of one model wearing an amazing space ship shaped frosted hat that had a sheer barely-there piece of material that acted as a dress, attached to it. That was until the piece of material got sucked up into the hat to leave the model completely naked with only the hat remaining.
A magician in his own right and master of his craft, Chalayan has created collections that inspire, impress and make the audience question “how did he do that?”.
Small, secretive and splendidly exclusive, Pop-Up Stores arrive and exit in a discreet whirlwind, leaving only the memory of itself to the people that were in the know and tracked it down. But as TellusFashion knows too well, times are a’changing – Boxpark is the name and shopping is the game.
Boxpark is the brain child of Roger Wade, founder of clothing brand Boxfresh, and is priding itself on being the first ever ‘Pop-Up mall’ – “a retail revolution”. Being strategically placed in kooky Shoreditch, the mall will be using the underground youth culture audience that the Boxfresh brand attracts, as inspiration. It will be a retail showcase for small and underground brands and has made it its mission to challenge the uniformity of the UK High Street and give a potential retail lifeline to cash strapped fashion labels. Something that all of us can empathise with.
“Not some run-of-the-mall shopping centre. It’s a living, fertile community packed with talent, innovation and attitude that puts creativity and fashion back where they belong: on the street” is the welcoming statement in the venture’s brochure. Boxpark aims to blend into the space it will be occupying, avoiding being intrusive or invasive. Wherever it pops up it will bring creativity and breathe new life into the area, an additional but welcome outcome for all involved.
But why Shoreditch? Once home to the textile industry, Shoreditch was at the heart of the creative industry and today still breeds radical ideas. Plus, it is undeniably cool, as standard. For the ambience Boxpark wants to create and due to its aim as an innovative and creative venture in shopping centre and experience, it is exactly where it needs to be for its debut.
Despite being self branded as a Pop-Up venture, Boxpark plans to be open for at least five years. It will, however, retain the stripped down profile of original Guerrilla stores – using shipping containers, or ‘boxes’, as sale spaces for an estimated 50 fashion, art and lifestyle brands. Sticking to the ‘here one minute, gone the next’ theme, each brand will only be able to occupy a space for a year, making everything more exclusive.
But please, do not just presume this will be another fad shopping centre (cough, Westfields, cough); “Boxpark isn’t just where you shop. It’s an inspiring and enjoyable place to drop in and hang out. What a real brand experience should be all about,” is a comment that encapsulates everything the mall wants to be about. This of course will attract the cool crowd, knowledgeable in fashion, that is non-confromist and has edge, but at the same time drawing in a new audience due to the brand turn-over that will occur. Not only is it catering to the obvious audience, but introducing these brands to people in a space that challenges the norm.
Due to open in August of this year, TellusFashion can predict that this will be groundbreaking – you couldn’t box this stuff up.